Well-Begun is Half Done…
Preparing for the season begins almost as soon as the previous season ends. There is material to be sourced, manpower to be rounded up and most importantly, the season’s trends to be decided upon…not an easy task. Explaining the importance of selecting the correct designs, Delhi-based designer Amisha Khanna says, “Jewellery designs that would be in vogue for the season depend largely on clothing trends. We take a call on what sort of a collection to put together by following trends and styles by both well-known and upcoming fashion designers and what they think would be in style for the season. Factors like what sort of embroidery is used e.g. Reshmi vs Zardozi or even the embellishments on the clothing determine the jewellery styles. International fashion trends for apparel and jewellery also play an important role in style prediction. I cater to high-profile clients who are very aware of international trends, so it is important to give them the right suggestions. The final purchase decision of course belongs to the client.”
Creating Timeless Jewellery :
Manali Bothra, designer of the exquisite jewellery at Nayaab Jewels, Mumbai expresses her logic behind the selection of the designs,” The festive and the wedding seasons are “the” seasons when jewellery buying takes a leap throughout India and it is important to be able to design pieces which make a statement. My focus is always on creating designs that blend the traditional with the modern to create timeless avant-garde jewellery. Obviously, ongoing fashion trends, the demand for contemporary designs and the look of the season have to be kept in mind. At the same time, the jewellery has to be classy and appeal to the client. My experience has taught me that though tastes in bridal jewellery have evolved tremendously over the past decade; brides still prefer the traditional and ornate look since jadau and kundan sets go well with their ensemble. The reception and other ceremonies do allow some amount of modernism, thus making them more wearable later too. Through one-on-one consultation sessions with the bride-to-be, I gauge her personality, lifestyle, sense of style and fashion and most importantly the ideal look that she has in mind.”
Alpana Gujral, jewellery designer with over 25 years of extensive experience, gives a slightly different opinion. She says, “Designing comes instinctively to me so I create whatever inspires me at that moment – I believe that creativity is not something that is planned…it simply flows! I don’t stick to trends but for the festive and wedding season. I do take care to welcome clients to my store through the old-fashioned and vintage yet classy method of personal invitations.”
Shobha Asar, creator of fine jewellery says that,”Designing for the season starts somewhere in May. Concepts and sketches are put together based on the prediction of current trends as far as material, finish and color palettes are concerned. Based on this, certain styles and collections are finalized which are expected to be popular and well-accepted for the season. Both bridal and gift sets are covered, so there is something for everyone.”
What’s in Vogue Now?
For the Wedding Season, Amisha predicts, “The evergreen gold and diamond combination is going to rule. Of course, color is in too, with emeralds, rubies and sapphires the hottest colors of the season. Even though clothing is traditional, jewellery designs would slant towards contemporary patterns. Besides the omnipresent necklaces and earrings et al, bajubandhs are the items to look out for – these are going to be in vogue very soon.” Manali believes,”Diamonds with colored stones would make for very pretty combinations. The season’s palette is a colorful one and the Indian skin tone looks best with red and green colors. Also, contemporary and geometric patterns are going to be in vogue. Brides would of course prefer to have maangteekas, bajubandhs and haathphools to accompany their sets. Otherwise the season sees more of individual jhumki earrings, bracelets, kadas, cuff bracelets and chunky rings in style.”
Wearability Sells More :
Alpana gives her inputs too - “Gold is the classic, evergreen staple, but it’s important to reinvent the look with a modern flair. Used with fresh patterns it keeps pace with changing trends. Pearls, diamonds, colored stones are all in – it depends on individual taste, there is no set rule, everything goes. All that matters is that the client feels good in what she is wearing. Rather than following trends, it’s important that the jewellery should complement personal style. Bold styles that are gem intensive will reign as will large colored stones embedded into necklaces and cocktail rings - all essential accessories for the chic lady with royal taste. Wearability is important in the current market; so single pieces that can be worn separately are likely to sell more. Brides can get as elaborate as their imagination allows them and pieces such as haathphools and maangteekas add to the princess-like vision that most brides have for themselves for their all-important wedding day.”
Gold Back with Vengeance :
According to Shobha, “Gold is back with a vengeance, especially textured gold with scratch finishes, sand blasting, beaten raw look, mesh wiring, combined with diamonds. Different polishes on gold – combinations of yellow white, bronze, black pink even green are stylish. Though emeralds, rubies and sapphires are all classics, other stones would create an unusual look, for example, pink and blue chalcedonies, smoky, rose and lemon quartz, aquamarine beads of different shapes, yellow and blue topaz, black and red onyxes et al. Designs are going to be nature-inspired, bold and geometric with sleek lines. Traditional concepts like beni rava and paisley with a contemporary look are expected to be in style. Bracelets, especially the cuff, chain and wire mesh styles would look fabulous. Brides especially would go in for maangteekas, haathphools and bajubandhs”.
The conclusion is simple – there’s a mind boggling variety out there and trends are being followed closely – all of which translate into celebration time for customers and high-profile jewellery designers too!
Amisha Khanna
Amisha Khanna has been designing jewellery for the past 11 years. A graduate in jewellery designing and manufacturing along with a Masters Degree from the IGI with a Dale course from The Martin School of Art in London, Amisha has also been a mentor at the ATR Jewellery Institute. She launched her own company in 2004 with an Indo-African collection at Vie Lounge.
A member of the advisory board for design development of Sangini Diamond Jewellery, she works with stores like Mogra, Cyprus and Anita Dongre (AND) in Mumbai to display her jewellery collections like Reflections of Love, Circle of Love and Rhythm. She was selected by DTC to suggest designs for Aishwarya Rai’s wedding trousseau.
She handled an Industrial Designing Project with Gili in 1997, interned as Marketing Executive & Designer at Gilliam International in 1998 and followed it up with a stint as Head Jewellery Designer with Notandas and Sons Jewellers till 2001. Her awards include the 1996 1st Runner Up in Swaranjali Gold Jewellery competition by the World Gold Council and the 2000 Winner of the most unusual design of the Millennium “The Armlet of Peace” at the De Beers Millennium Design Contest. In 1998, her design was chosen for the Designer Gallery by De Beers.
Manali Bothra
Manali Bothra’s talent for jewellery designing was recognized by her grandfather-in-law who insisted that she take up a career in jewellery designing. Qualified with a B.Sc. degree in Home Science, Manali pursued jewellery designing at the Asian Institute of Jewellery Designers (Hong Kong). This sharpening of practical knowledge combined with her creativity and the unflinching support of her family led to the launch of her own store – Nayâab, literally meaning one-of-a-kind.
Manali is an ardent believer in traditional, hand-made jewellery and emphasizes visualization, originality, imagination and design more than practical knowledge. Her seven-strong in-house designer team comprises qualified artists with fine art degrees.
Manali takes almost 3-4 sittings to familiarize herself with the client’s personality, preferences and lifestyle, followed by approval of the drafted designs, redrawing and finishing. The final piece takes around two months to make. Nature and abstract forms inspire her to create jewellery that truly epitomizes the beauty of the Indian woman. She personally prefers working with color – even if it’s just a teardrop of blush among a score of uncut diamonds.
Alpana Gujral
Marriage of Traditional with Contemporary :
Alpana Gujral has perfected her craft over 25 years in Delhi. Educated in fine arts at The Delhi School of Art, her jewellery is a marriage of the traditional with contemporary.
Alpana has successfully morphed the traditional art of Minakari to suit the contemporary woman by using traditional Minakari motifs of flora and fauna in a wide variety of colors to match the spectrum of contemporary fashion.
Each of her collections consists of around a hundred individually handcrafted, limited edition pieces, with each piece taking close to four to six months to craft. Her jewellery revives the vintage and yet is original. Elements of scenery inspired her latest collection, “Enchanted Garden,” that celebrates nature’s beauty in all of its glory. Her work is described by most as an alliance of contemporary and classic styles, a mixture of oriental splendor and baroque exuberance, an innovation in the art of fashioning gold.
Besides India, her collections have been exhibited and sold in various cities across the globe such as New York, San Francisco, Washington, Houston, London, Hong Kong, and Dubai. The Asia Museum store in New York has showcased her collection. She operates from her boutique jewellery design house at the upscale ‘Emporio’ mall in New Delhi.
Shobha Asar
‘Shobha Asar’ is one of the reputed jewellery houses in Mumbai and today counts amongst its clientele the country’s rich and elite. Shobha Asar the founder of the company started this venture as a hobby almost 30 years ago that has bloomed into a very flourishing business today.
The characteristics of each of her pieces are carefully designed to reflect the attitude of the person adorning the jewellery. Diamonds are their specialty, and they have combined innovation with tradition to present an array of beautiful jewellery that appeals to a wide variety of discerning clientele in India and abroad.
As an organization, Shobha Asar accords the greatest importance to their relation with the customers and their greatest asset is their continued trust and patronage through the years, no compromise is ever made in design, manufacture, fit, finish or packaging. The basic traits that inspired the organization continue to be tightly woven into the very essence of the company, marked by the highest quality of finish, industry leading designs and the very best of raw materials. The entire joint is dedicated to maintaining the reputation it has earned over the years and is constantly working towards broadening its horizons.
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