Why is there so little data about
colour gemstones, when compared
with diamonds?
The Global Emerald & Ruby Supply:
Analysing Market Data report draws on
data from a variety of sources – from
production and extraction reports to
export data. Challenges arise given
the distinct lack of available data. The
vast majority of coloured gemstones
are extracted by artisanal mining, both
formal and informal, for which scant
reporting standards exist.
In addition, coloured gemstones often originate from countries that do not have strong reporting standards. The data that does exist can be inconsistent in terms of gemstone forms – for instance, rough versus cut-and-polished – and units of measurement, with some export and production data presented in terms of quantity (which can be stated in kilograms or carats), and some in value, (typically stated in US dollars), but rarely with both weight and value together.
This presents a significant issue, as gemstones vary tremendously in value depending upon their quality, which is, in turn, determined by subtle variations in factors, such as clarity and colour, as well as by their weight.
How big is the global gemstone
market?
According to an Edison (investment
research company) report, published
19 May 2021, the trade of coloured
gemstones sits at approximately $ 2-3
billion in rough gemstones, excluding
jade. For emeralds the main three
sources are Brazil, Colombia and
Zambia, and some relevant production
also comes from Ethiopia, Afghanistan,
Pakistan, and Russia. For rubies,
Mozambique, Myanmar, Greenland,
East Africa and Southeast Asia
dominate. India, China, US and Europe
are all key consumers of coloured
gemstones. Both India and Southeast
Asia are prominent manufacturers for
the sector. In fact, Jaipur is to emeralds
what Surat is to diamonds: much of
the world's coloured gemstone cutting
and polishing happens in Jaipur. We
would estimate over 90% of Zambian
and Brazilian emerald rough is cut and
polished in Jaipur.
Allowing the price to be set at the point of export from the host country inevitably leads to acute under-pricing, given how subjective pricing is. This, in turn, highlights the fact that official export data is likely to seriously understate the true value of the gemstones that leave a deposit-hosting country. Setting the value of rough gemstones at the time of foreign sale, rather than at the point of export from the host country, would remedy this. Gemfields has successfully implemented such a model and the impact is nothing short of revolutionary: balance of payments data published online by the Bank of Mozambique provides a useful “Rubies, Sapphire and Emerald”
category, reflecting Mozambique’s combined monetary inflows from these three gems since January 2011. Despite only mining one of the three gemstones (rubies), the commencement in 2009 of a well-documented “ruby rush” in the Montepuez area, involving thousands of artisanal and illegal miners, and the ongoing mining efforts of both artisanal and formalised mining operations in the Montepuez area, MRM’s production accounts for 94% of Mozambique’s official monetary inflows of rubies, emeralds and sapphires over the last decade (from January 2011 until June 2021)
Prior to MRM’s first auction in June 2014, and since January 2011, when the data commences, cumulative exports of rubies, sapphires and emeralds across all Mozambican producers totals less than $ 1 million. Cash exceeding $ 10,000 must be declared upon entry into Mozambique. The data makes it clear that, with the exception of MRM, Mozambique’s emerald, ruby and sapphire wealth has simply evaporated over the last decade.
What our initial research highlights is how far the coloured gemstone industry still has to go in reaching the level of transparency that end consumers deserve. Without knowing the journey each gemstone has taken, jewellery customers’ concerns regarding slavery, smuggling, child labour, tax avoidance and fair pricing at export cannot be allayed. We must seek a means of providing greater transparency. Gemfields has pioneered a more transparent approach and is calling upon others within the sector to help drive this forward. In July 2021, we launched the ‘G-Factor for Natural Resources,’ an uncomplicated indicator of the percentage of a natural resource company’s revenue that is paid to its host country government in primary and direct taxes, plus -- where the host government is a shareholder -- dividends. We published, our own ten-year contributions with around 18% and 26% of revenue flowing back to the Zambian and Mozambican governments, respectively, from 2011-2020. As a result of our efforts, today, more emerald- and ruby-derived value than ever accrues to our host countries. We would encourage all coloured gemstone producers to publish their figures.
And lastly, tell us about your offices
in India and the role they play in
one of the world's biggest jewellery
producing and consuming nations.
Gemfields operates an office in Jaipur
primarily to service its customers, but
auction viewings are also facilitated from
our well-located office, and this offers
excellent viewing conditions.
In 2016 with approval from the
Kagem Board, Gemfields introduced a
‘Direct Sales’ initiative in Jaipur to seek
out a larger number of appropriately
positioned micro-manufacturing firms
with a view to stimulating demand for
the most commercial qualities of emerald
and beryl, while, at the same time,
supporting the creation of additional
“next generation” auction participants.
Smaller size/value parcels are made
available for purchase out of Gemfields’s
Jaipur office to a broader base of
pre-identified/invited smaller-scale
manufacturers operating within Jaipur.
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