Not the Same Old

Without a doubt, the round brilliant cut continues to be the most popular diamond shape. Round diamonds represents approximately 75 per cent of diamonds sold and thus it seems that all the other cuts still have a long way to go. However, unique fancy cut diamonds which are basically less conventional and comprises mostly of all the other diamond shapes except for round, are slowly gaining fame.

Round Brilliant Cut diamonds have habitually constantly been the most popular of all diamond cuts due to their symmetry and ability to capture the light brilliantly. Over the years, the precision and cut of the diamond has progressed through many stages to evolve into the 58 faceted modern Round Brilliant Cut diamonds. Nevertheless, cuts except for the rounds also are slowly gaining popularity. To throw some light on the real scenario, Anant Mehta, Partner, A. J. Mehta & Co.says, “India being a more traditional market still appreciates round stones more as it has a better resale value then fancy cut diamonds. Also the exposure to rounds has been higher since most marketing campaigns focus on rounds. The trend is slowly but surely changing as people want something new and since they have already got enough traditional and round jewellery either passed on or purchased. Internationally people consider jewellery more as an accessory and want different designs. This is also the new thinking in the Indian youth who are comparing jewellery to be an accessory rather than an investment.” A.J. Mehta & Co. houses unique cuts like rose cuts, briolettes, diamond beads, taviz, mine cuts and more catering to some popular brands throughout the globe.

While Manju Kothari- Creative Director, Entice feels, “the use of fancy cuts and unique cuts started internationally but now Indian clients are also appreciating these diamond cuts. Clients in India are now used to pears, marquise, aschher, emerald cut and princess. Even briolettes and rose cuts are a common sight now. But, use of patented cuts is very difficult as clients do not relate to the price escalation that these unique cuts come with.” Embodying elegance in an effortless combination of classical and contemporary influences, Entice, a flagship brand of KGK, creates jewellery for an avid jewellery aficionado.

Traditional cuts like the princess, round and oval cuts have ruled for years, but now there are almost endless options for individuals looking for a unique flair to consider. There used to be only a few popular cuts to choose from (like Round Brilliant and Princess cut), but now some of our favourites include Pear shape, Asscher cut and Emerald cut diamonds. Talking about the preference of the cuts, Manu Kothari says, “Indian clients prefer pears, marquise, princess and emerald cut the most. Aschher, briolettes and even rose cuts are acceptable when presented in a very unique design. Internationally, designers are using beautiful lily cuts, patented Budhha cuts, faceted beads and many more.” While Anant Mehta shares, “Rounds are always preferred in India. Globally also rounds would be the preference but acceptance to different cuts is higher.” He adds, “You can categorize the preference of designers. You have a lot of popular brands and designers still using rounds and creating a collection completely with round stones while some prefer using fancy cuts. There are many smaller brands that use only fancy cuts to create their collections also but to some extent the popular designers who create unique pieces tend to prefer fancy cuts to rounds.” While Manju Kothari opines, “It is not so much about bigger names it is about the designer who sits behind these big names and their aesthetic choices. Internationally, a lot of new age designers, who make avant garde jewellery are also clubbing together some very unique shapes together.”

Every rough diamond has its own story tell and this story is revealed through its shape. Inspiration for the antique cuts comes either from nature or from the surroundings. And, that is how, Param Exports has presented antique cut diamonds in the shape of gun, Christmas tree, car, cricket bat, kitty in the past. India is of prime importance to the international diamond industry as a major cutting and polishing hub. Out of world’s every 10 diamonds, 9 are processed (cut & polished) in India. Talking of country’s importance to the international diamond industry, Ashish Donda, Partner, Param Exports says “India is unique as the country gave the world its first diamonds many centuries ago. Today, our country boasts of being not only one of the most important diamond centers in the global diamond industry but also being a stable, well-developed, technologically advanced manufacturing base. To show our due respect to the country as well as the diamond industry, we decided to present our ‘One-of-a-kind India Mixed Cut’ diamond on this day. It is of immense and honour to present this amazing cut diamond to the world on our country’s 70th Independence Day.” This was very much showcased at the recently concluded IIJS 2016, Mumbai and people were astonished with this cut. India Mixed Cut is a 3.60 cts sparkling diamond in two pieces, which has been the result of tireless efforts of Param Exports’ in-house artists. This astonishing India map has SI 1 clarity; measures 17.55x17.55x2.17 mm and weighs 3.60 cts.

Wrapping up, Manju Kothari perfectly sums, “At the end it is all about what value does the diamond shape add to the whole design. You can make gorgeous jewellery using only round shapes or you can make an absolute disaster using multiple shapes together. These cuts need to sing with each other and create a beautiful jewel when put together. It is all about aesthetics.”