Archival

Erica Courtney - Designer to the Stars and the Starry-Eyed

Most designers start with preparing collections, putting them out on the market and waiting for acceptance, recognition, and eventually fame and celebrity to strike. Her’s is a rare case of finding public approbation even before she became a jewellery designer, and in fact one of the reasons that pushed her towards her destiny. Nilan Singh follows the life and times of Erica Courtney, designer to the stars and the starry eyed.

diamond world news service

Dallas, amongst the larger cities of the rough, tough state of Texas, is the land of Bonnie & Clyde. It is the city where John F. Kennedy was shot by an assassin and where he drew his last breath. But Dallas also boasts of a number of finer points. One of some significance for the jewellery industry is that it was the starting base for the career of Erica Courtney, one of most eminent designers today; one moreover who fashions the tastes of celebrities and sets trends.

Way back in the early 1980s, Erica began modestly by embellishing sunglasses with Swarovski crystals. Her innate creativity and love of all things beautiful spurred her to also design “costume jewellery” which she was fond of wearing herself.

Without intending to or even realising at the time, she had created designer pieces and her first “collection”. It was only when a number of people she encountered, even casually on the street, asked her where they could buy similar jewellery, that her own talent and potential began dawning on her. “I started in 1983 embellishing sunglasses, then watches, than I was designing silver jewellery. Next was fine jewellery and I’ve been designing fine jewellery ever since,” says Erica, harking back to the early days. “My mother influenced me to become a designer and she was my biggest supporter. Once she told all of her friends that I was a designer, it was official.”

This is how it happened. In 1989, Erica “followed her heart” to Los Angeles, the city of the angels; the city which is home to the hallowed land of cinema - Hollywood. It was here that she designed her first sterling silver collection, engraved with love notes. It became an instant hit, and her clients craved for more. Once again, without setting out to do so, or realising it at the time, she had successfully launched the first designer sterling silver collection.

After some time spent in working with silver, it was time to move into the big league, and the Erica Courtney Collection proudly included gold and platinum, gemstone set jewellery, “ultimately inspired by the history and glamour of Hollywood”.

Today, with a Beverly Boulevard address, and a vast star-studded clientele, she has not only arrived, she’s there to stay on the firmament of the most notable jewellery designers of the time.

“Many things inspire me,” says Erica. But her greatest inspiration comes no doubt from the materials she uses. “When I find an amazing gemstone I want to use, I’m inspired to highlight it in the most gorgeous way possible. A lot of my designs start there,” she elaborates. And such is the excitement over the creation that she says, “waiting to see my designs finished is difficult because of the anticipation”.

Defining her current favourites she says, “Right now, coloured gemstones, particularly really rare collectible stones; and I prefer gold at the moment.” In order to source just the right kind of stones, Erica travels the world ceaselessly and tirelessly. She also hand picks the Tahitian pearls that she uses. She likes the gemstones to “speak to her” and works only with materials that truly inspire her.

Particularly memorable in recent times was Erica’s Zultanite collection. “It started when I visited the mine in Turkey,” she explains. “Seeing where it originated and then bringing a piece of that to my design process was wonderful.”

What is notable about Erica Courtney the designer –and the brand – is that she takes pride in sketching every single design personally. She is the sole designer for her brand. Also, all her jewellery is locally crafted in Los Angeles by a second generation master craftsman.

Currently, Erica Courtney jewellery is broadly divided under two categories – Dropdead Gorgeous and Gorgeous and Engaged. While the former includes bracelets, necklaces, earrings and rings, for different occasions, the latter is a bridal offering entirely comprising engagement rings and wedding bands, many of them with the couple’s initials engraved or pave set in diamonds.

The latter category was born fortuitously. When it was time for her son to get engaged, she had the challenging task of designing an engagement ring. “My son’s engagement ring was the toughest piece of jewellery I have worked on,” she says with a smile. “Because he gave me no direction. However, it inspired me to design my Gorgeous & Engaged collection.”

Erica Courtney jewellery has featured prominently on the red carpet over the years. Her glittering and glamorous clientele includes Madonna, Julia Roberts, Reese Wintherspoon, Jessica Alba, Johnny Depp, Queen Latifah and many many others. Not only do filmstars flaunt her jewellery, but her collections have also starred in many films and TV serials!

Erica shares an interesting experience from her working life with us. “When my son was 12, I would pay him $ 2 per wax mould,” she says. “I actually produced some of those pieces and they got amazing press placements on advertisements such as Donna Karan and were seen on hit shows such as 90210. They also sold really well. It was mind blowing!”

Looking back, Erica says, “When you get to a certain price point, you’re definitely playing in the big league.” The biggest compliment to her is when someone buys a piece of jewellery that is really expensive. “Because I know they have so many other options,” she says. “That by far is the most flattering compliment I can get.” No doubt what amount defines “really expensive” today has changed greatly since that time many years back that she recalls, saying, “ My first big sale was a $1200 gold and pearl necklace years ago.”

Personally, Erica is equally comfortable in casuals or formals. “I can do flip-flops and jeans or 6-inch heels with all of my jewellery!” she exclaims. “It’s all about how you wear your jewellery and mix it up.” But, she adds, “I love big juicy cocktail rings and lots of bracelets!”

For her every female is a potential Erica Courtney woman as, she says, “I think all women want to feel sexy, gorgeous and beautiful.”

Two of the most beautiful, gorgeous sexy women of all times have been her muse in the past – Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor. The latter actually owned and wore her jewellery. “Muses change,” she says meditatively. “Right now I am my biggest muse.”

It goes without saying that a talented, popular and creative designer like Erica must have had her share of accolades in the course of her career. “I was named one of the Top Ten Jewellery Designers in the world by United Brands in 2011,” she says with some satisfaction. But the list stretches long, and over several years.

In 2012 she won the AGTA Spectrum Awards - Classical Wear Platinum Honors and Bridal Wear 2nd Place. In 2011 apart from being named one of the Top 10 as she stated earlier, she also won the 24K ClubExcellence in Service Award and the Women’s Jewelery Association Green Diva Design Award for the Evening Category; in 2010The Couture Show awarded her for the Best Timepiece and she won the AGTA Spectrum Awards- Evening Wear Honorable Mention; in 2009 the Platinum Guild International gave her an award for Best Red Carpet Jewelry and in the same year she also won the AGTA Spectrum Awards for Best Use of Platinum & Color, Platinum Honors in Bridal Wear, Manufacturing Honors - Classical Piece; in 2008 she won the Town & CountryCouture Design Awards in Platinum and the Platinum Guild InternationalRed Capret Award and Luxury for Everyday Award; in 2004JA NY presented her the Golden Apple Awards in Sparkle and The Couture Show honoured her for Outstanding Achievement in PR; and in 2003 the Women’s Jewelery Association bestowed upon her the Annual Award for Excellence in Design. Quite a roll of honour that!

Even as Erica gears up and gets into the pace for a “super busy 2012”, she yet manages to find some time for other activities that interest her and she finds relaxing. While “baking delicious cakes, travelling and fashion,” are favourites in this sphere, the top of the charts position is held by her little grandchild, Brooklyn, with whom she enjoys spending quality time.

Her parting advice for aspiring designers is, “Find your voice in your designs and have your own designs that you’re super passionate about”.

Looking ahead, Erica feels that pinnacle of her career is at hand, even as she races to attain the top position. “Things are moving in such a positive direction,” she says. “I’m blessed to be considered a high profile designer and work with so many amazing people.”

Given her track record, it is not difficult to believe that that is exactly where she will be in the coming years – at the top.


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