Talking of combination of traditional themes, fine design and bold colours, no one does it better than Lydia Courtielle from Paris. This Parisian born gemologist, antique jewellery expert and designer never stops surprising jewellery patrons with her designs, which are inspired from nature, history, ethnicity, religions, etc.

“Trips, nature, archeology and a lot of readings; I am inspired by everything in fact. The most difficult thing is to gather all the elements: stones, story, colours, and emotions. The process is a kind of a puzzle,” shares Lydia.

Her designs are like unraveling the mystery of the past. Each of her creation retains natural, historical or symbolical references; call them story in jewels. Be it Queen of Sheba collection that took inspiration from Queen of Sheba, a divine creature, an alluring sorceress of great intelligence and wisdom or Deep Sea collection that are sea-inspired designs; one just keeps admiring the high-design of her jewellery.

So how did jewellery happen to Lydia? Was it chance or a thoughtful decision? I was curious to know. And I was not surprised when Lydia said “It was serendipity, all happened by chance with some luck after many years working in the antique jewellery business. Antiques influenced and continue to inspire my designs. I graduated with a degree in bio-chemistry in Paris.” The world of jewellery was meant to have this brilliant designer and she found her way.

This led to Lydia founding her own jewellery studio in Paris. Since then, she has established herself as one of the most known jewellery designers, who have been revered for their imaginative and daring designs. The cozy baroque 19th century studio bathed in indigo light is a home to her jewellery collection, antique jewellery and stones.

Reminiscing her foray in the world of jewellery design, Lydia says “I came to the jewellery business because my watch, bought by an antique jeweller, fell down and broke. He repaired it and then offered me a job, and I accepted. Now you know what I mean by serendipity and luck.” I sure did.

Creations
A lot of her creations are the result of her travelling, wherein she gets inspired by the culture, nature, religion, people, etc. Asymmetrical “tree people” earrings, an articulated lobster ring, a giant “leaf spider” broche with green moonstones, or even a pair of Egyptian inspired “charade” bangles, Seahorses and octopus ornate earrings and necklaces; these kind of fine jewellery is hard to miss. Its originality, distinctiveness makes it so special for the jewellery connoisseurs.

Talking about her recent collection, Lydia says “In my recent collection the beginning was about finding and purchasing the stones, opals in that case. Then their colour made me think about the Harem Topkapi ceramics. Subsequently, I used the Iznik ceramic designs to build a whole collection.”

For her newest limited collection "Rainbow Warrior Prophecy", Lydia Courteille took inspiration in the legends and myths of diverse Native American tribes.

Several predictions - in particular the tribe of Hopis, Arizona - announce the coming of the Warriors of the Rainbow. It is said that the souls of the first men will return together and unite, as the colours of the Rainbow. These men will teach the people of the world how to love and worship Mother Earth.

This collection is a message of love and harmony for this collection in the colours of the Rainbow.

Another from her bejeweled world is the Queen of Sheba Collection, which pays homage to the mythical, mysterious biblical queen. The collection contains 18 pieces: 1 tiara, 9 rings, 7 earrings and one bracelet. All the jewels in the collection are in black and brown rhodium plated gold 18K, green and yellow tourmalines, yellow sapphires, brown and white diamonds, tsavorites, peridots and opals. One of the striking pieces of jewellery from this collection is an unusual pair of earrings that can be worn as a necklace as well.

Lydia has a penchant for rare and exotic and colour stones. So which is her most favourite stone? Her answer was obvious. “I love diamonds but it’s easier and fun for me to use colour stones,” says Lydia. “l love all kinds of materials, especially blackened gold. l love opals – they change and become different in various lights,” adds Lydia.

Followers and Recommendations
For me at Diamond World, it is always a pleasure to know jewellery designers from across the world. To know about their muses and icons is always interesting. Every designer knows who would wear his or her creations. In case of Lydia, one needs to remember that her designs are quite daring and need an attitude to wear them. “Audacious and free women wear my designs. Some wealth helps too because my designs are one of a kind, a lot of time, effort and work goes into their realisation,” says maverick designer. However, she is quick to add further “I would not want to generalise – every woman has her own style or should find it and express herself.”

Talking about the women that have inspired her, Lydia says “I am inspired by many amazing strong women, dancers for instance – past legendary figures, femme fatales like Isadora Duncan or Liane de Pougy, women from early 20th century. That makes sense because I love Rene Lalique and European Jewellery from 19th and early 20th centuries.”

As far as personal style for dressing is concerned, Lydia loves Azzedine Alaïa and wears her own jewels of course. Apart from of course her own designs, Lydia loves diamond work of Yeprem.

Accolades
Lydia has made 4000 pieces in 11 years of creations and most of them one of a kind and it’s no mean feat. And it’s no wonder that Lydia’s works have got her some of the reputed jewellery awards in the U.S. and Hong Kong. She won The 2012 Couture Design Awards in Coloured Gemstones Over $20k Retail category; also prestigious “Award champion aesthetic Champions” in 2013; and also 2014 AGTA Spectrum Award.

Amongst the immense and loyal fan following for her creations, Karl Lagerfeld, German fashion designer, artist, and photographer based in Paris, too adores Lydia’s designs and she is proud of it. “She has a genius for making jewellery. I trust her 100%,” said Karl Lagerfeld about Lydia and her designs.

Parting words
As we wrapped up the discussion, Lydia shared advice for the aspiring designers. She said “Educate yourself – learn about cultures of the world, history, arts, literature. All of that matters.”

And one last question of day was about what is the next on bench at Lydia Courtielle, Paris. “It will be a surprise,” says Lydia. Well, we are all waiting for the surprise.